I recently bought a Solarforc L2m flashlight host (head assembly, battery tube and tail switch assembly). The L2m is only 4.5″ long (~115 mm).
The head assembly is designed for a Surefire P60-sized drop-in. Fizz753 over at Candlepowerforums.com has compiled a very complete and up-to-date list of LED drop-ins.
I used one of my modded Cree XR-E (Q5 bin) LED drop-ins with a DealExtreme 16-Mode 3W 3.7V 7135 Circuit Board (SKU 7612) stuck in it.
Power is provided by a single protected Li-Ion RCR123A 3.7V battery. This 16340 size battery gives about 30 minutes on full with the 7612 board. I haven’t measured the current out of the board, but the specs say 1000 ma, so the output, according to Cree (Cree® XLamp® XR-E LED Data Sheet – PDF), is probably about 180-200 lm.
The next mod I made was replacing the reverse clicky switch with a McClicky switch. The last thing I’ll probably do is replace the crenelated ring on the head with a plain one.
4 Replies to “Solarforce L2m”
I ended up using the retaining ring from this DealExtreme Replacement Tailcap Switch for Surefire 6P/C1. I had to install in reverse but it holds the McClicky in very well. Also unscrewing it 1.5 turns will lock out the switch.
So did the stock retaining ring work for the L2 and the McClicky? If not, where did you get the retaining ring for the McClicky to work?
It’s not a direct replacement for the existing switch, I had to use different retaining rings for the L2 and L2m. Once it is in there, it is as good as anything.
Lighthound sells a Solarforce forward clicky, but the feel isn’t as nice as the McClicky. There are a couple of comments about it here and here.
I’m going to be assembling a light out of the L2 host as well. I’m going for the standard L2, plus a 1-cell extension, and that plain bezel ring. I don’t expect to be gouging eyeballs off of people in my daily routine, so the ‘self-defense’ bezel isn’t necessary. I like the concept of the P60 lights. Replacing or upgrading as someone comes out with something new, or making your own lamp. You say you use the McClicky switch to make it a ‘forward’ switch. Does that fit very well? I read the specs and it mentioned Surefire E-series, which I thought was a bit smaller. I favor the tactical ‘forward’ switch also, so I may have to go that route if it’s a good fit.