Under the Alfa – Cursing

I have been under the Alfa the past couple of days, swearing.

The new brake booster was leaking air near the pedal so I had to take it out again and put in another one. Since the clutch master cylinder and brake master cylinder are both mounted on the “pedal box,” I have to bleed the brakes again. Whoopee.

Alfetta Sprint Veloce
Alfetta Sprint Veloce

Now I have it up on six jack stands to replace the flex discs in the driveshaft, the clutch (whose release bearing is grinding), a worn rear engine mount, upper radiator hose, rear brake discs, coolant change and an oil change while I’m at it.

After dropping this exhaust system from headers, I pulled the driveshaft out and removed the rear engine mount. The rear engine mount is held in a cast “bell housing” by friction. To remove it, I used a propane torch to heat up the surrounding metal while I pounded it out with a BFH and BF screwdriver.

Unfortunately, the BFH, PB Blaster and the propane torch didn’t work on the the rear brake discs. This Alfetta has a De Dion rear suspension, a transaxle and in-board mounted brake discs. My next attempt at removing the hex bolts holding the brake discs will be a 6 point hex wrench with a 2 ft length of 1″ pipe for additional leverage. From what I’ve read, people also cut the heads of the bolts, which reduces the stress on the threads, making them easy to remove. I have something to look forward to.

(More pitures here)

3 Replies to “Under the Alfa – Cursing”

  1. Thanks Al – cutting the washers is a good idea. I’ll try it. I have been putting PB Blaster on them the past couple of days while I wait for the lock nuts for the drive shaft.

  2. Leslie-
    I have had to remove those bolts many times, and usually end up rounding off several of those hex bolts in the process. They are fortunately easy to replace, consider using the Allen type when replacing them, as used on the Milano. The best technique I have found for removing them is to cut a notch in the washer, and then use a cold chisel and BFH in this notch to either: 1) turn the washer (which has been welded with rust to the rotor and bolt) or 2) break the washer at the notch. If the washer breaks at the notch, it will then (with pounding) rotate out from under the bolt, which will then usually turn easily. Sometimes a pipe wrench can get a good bite on the rounded bolt heads, too. If all else fails, you can grind the heads off the bolts, but this is a lot of work and all the sparks and bits of stuff flying around is kind of unpleasant. Finally, please be careful using a big extension when a car is on jack stands!

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