Category: Cars

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Alfetta Cooling Fan

Flex-a-lite model 390 10-inch S-Blade reversible electric fan
Flex-a-lite model 390 10-inch S-Blade reversible electric fan

I think because my 1979 Alfetta Sprint Veloce has an air conditioner, engine cooling seems marginal when the ambient temperature is above 80 F (27 C).
When running at speed, the temp gauge indicates a normal 175 F. But when stuck in traffic, though the engine doesn’t overheat, the gauge goes halfway between 175 F and 250 F (79 C to 121 C).

I had the radiator checked at a radiator shop; they said there’s nothing wrong with it. I’ve bled the cooling system at the pump and thermostat and use Red Line Water Wetter in the coolant.

In an effort to help with cooling when the car isn’t moving, I replaced the stock electric fan with a new one. My reasoning was that a fan with a modern design might be more efficient. I bought a Flex-a-lite 390 S-Blade Black 10″ Electric Fan. It’s a 10″ fan that advertises 775 CFM. The space behind the radiator doesn’t allow dual fans or a larger fan. The new fan doesn’t seem to make an difference in cooling.

I also thought about using the new fan to replace the one in front of the A/C condenser but I wasn’t sure I’d be able to remove the old fan without removing the radiator and A/C condensor. I know the old fan won’t come out through the gills below the bumper. I haven’t removed the grills yet. I cleaned a few bugs off the condenser, but even when the A/C fan is on, I can’t feel much air coming through if I put my hand behind the radiator.

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Flex-a-lite Fan Failure

Flex-a-lite 116 Trimline Electric Fan

Five years ago, when I had our BMW Bavaria‘s radiator re-cored, the radiator shop said a two row core would be enough. I’ve never had any cooling problems.

Instead of replacing the water pump mounted cooling fan, I bought a Flex-a-lite 116 Trimline Fan. It’s a 16″ fan that is 3.5″ deep. The airflow is 2215 CFM (62747.8 LPM) and it draws 11A.

Flex-a-lite says there should be “at very least 1″ from the closest part of the fan to the radiator“. Because I didn’t have that much room, I mounted the fan in front of the radiator, as a pusher.

To switch it on, I mounted a thermostatic switch (61 31 1 364 872 82D) on a bung on the radiator lower hose connection. The other part of the switch was connected to a relay for power.

Because the climate is cool here, the fan rarely switches on. But yesterday when it switched on, I heard a grinding noise. I was hoping a leaf got stuck in it.

I had to pull the radiator to remove the fan. It made a grinding noise when I turned it by hand. I disassembled the motor by removing a couple of Torx screws and a pin retaining the motor shaft to the case. Inside I found a DC motor, not unlike the ones I used in my slot cars, except this one had 4 magnets and 16 poles. I have used Koford quad magnets in my slot cars.

One of the permanent magnets had become unglued from the case. The armature’s poles had distorted slightly from turning against the loose magnet. I used JB Weld to glue the magnet back onto the can and a large screwdriver to straighten out the armature poles.

When I pulled the armature out of the casing, the four brushes and the springs shot out. While wondering how I was going to hold four spring loaded brushes in at once, I noticed two holes at the end of the brush holders. I put a piece of copper wire in each one so I could reseat the armature end bearing and connect the brushes.

After I reassembled and tested the fan, I ordered a new one. I figured $100 USD for a new fan is better insurance for preventing an engine meltdown, even though a 5 year life span for the old motor seems just OK. Maybe when I get the new fan, I’ll put some dielectric grease between the motor covers and the casing to seal it a little better from moisture.

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1938 Alfa Romeo 8C 2900B at Pebble Beach

1938 Alfa Romeo 8C 2900B Touring Berlinetta
1938 Alfa Romeo 8C 2900B Touring Berlinetta – Photo used by permission of the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance. All rights reserved

Jon & Mary Shirley and their 1938 Alfa Romeo 8C 2900B Touring Berlinetta get a confetti shower after they won the Best of Show at the 2008 Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance. Autoblog has some nice pitures of the winner.

This isn’t the first time an Alfa Romeo 8C 2900B has won Best of Show at the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance. In 1988, John Mozart’s 1937 Alfa Romeo 8C 2900B Touring Spyder claimed the title.

Sam & Emily Mann's 1939 Alfa Romeo 8C 2900 B Touring Spyder
Sam & Emily Mann’s 1939 Alfa Romeo 8C 2900 B Touring Spyder

The black 1939 Alfa Romeo 8C 2900B Touring Spyder at the right belongs to Sam & Emily Mann. They showed it at the 5th Annual Louis Vuitton Classic Car Show at Rockefeller Center in New York City in 2000.

Wikipedia has an entry on the Alfa Romeo 8C, with its various iterations through the 1930’s. About thirty 8C 2900Bs were built for road use and bodied by several Carrozzeria (coachbuilders). The Best of Show car’s body was done by Carrozzeria Touring of Milano.

Ralph Lauren has a nice Alfa Romeo 8C 2900 built for the 1938 Mille Miglia in his collection.

In 2005, Christie’s International Motor Cars sold a nice 8C 2900 for $4,072,500 USD.

(Touring Berlinetta photo used by permission of the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance. All rights reserved. I took the piture of the 8C 2900B Touring Spyder my own self)

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Blackhawk Exposition Sale

Every year, the Blackhawk Collection sets up their tents on the 9 hole Peter Hay course at Pebble Beach, during the week leading up to the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance. Their auction wares are right out on the fairways.

I happen to ride my bike past the course this afternoon and this photograph shows a pretty typical gray summer day around here, mostly cloudy, with high temperatures around 60 F (15.5 C). If you’re lucky, it’ll be sunny.

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LED Tail Lights

Cree XLamp® XR-E LED (P2 bin)
Cree XLamp® XR-E LED (P2 bin)

I had some extra Cree XLamp® XR-E LEDs (P2 bin) when I upgraded some flashlights to Q5 bin LEDs.

When I found a LED circuit board that had an input voltage of 4v-18V, I thought it would work well as a driver for an automotive LED bulb. The circuit board uses a Micro Bridge Technology PT4105 (PDF specs) step down LED driver.

I took an 1156 bulb to use as a base for the circuit board and LED. I broke out the glass and filament and used JB Weld to glue the components together.

BMW Bavaria Tail Light
BMW Bavaria Tail Light

The LED was brighter than the 1156 bulb, but it had a noticeable hot spot, even though the Cree LED has a 90 degree viewing angle. Heat doesn’t seem to be a problem; the Bavaria’s light socket dissipates the heat well.

Joe Weir, on the Senior Six Mailing List, suggested using a diffuser lens. I’ll have to find something then report back.