HP Pavilion f1703 Flat Panel Display Blackout Solution

Posted by Mr. Leslie Wong On May - 2 - 2005



I am not responsible for any damage you might cause to your monitor or yourself by following these instructions. If you open up your monitor case to this point, you will probably void your warranty.

CAUTION: There may be HIGH VOLTAGE present. Disconnect all power during disassembly. Inverters can generate high voltages.

If this repair is too daunting, HP has offered an extended warranty in this HP Support document. Thank you, tsmitty, for this link to HP Support. (Jan. 23, 2009: HP has discontinued this offer)

My HP Pavilion f1703 LCD Monitor suffered the same blackout symptoms as other posters in the CNET forum. After powering on, the display would go black after a few seconds. It was not the power supply in my case – I tried another working power supply with the same result.

It was also not a software problem, e.g., XP SP2, power management, screensavers, etc. In my case, it was a hardware problem, as I tried the monitor on a different machine with the same result: power on, brief display, then black. It also exhibited this behavior with no cable connected to the monitor.

I noticed the screen was faintly visible under bright light and realized that the backlight was not working. It seemed unlikely that the fluorescent tube would fail – I have had my Toshiba Portege 7200CT notebook computer on for 5 years, running SETI@Home.

Since the monitor was out of warranty, I decided to try to repair it myself. This is not a step-by-step procedure, but an general overview of how I solved MY problem with this monitor.

After reading the posts, it seemed that there must have been a loose connection on the circuit board that drives the monitor’s backlight. I especially noted gromit588‘s post about disassembly and followed the instructions. gromit588′s experience must have shorted some connection closed to fix the problem. I found that it did not help me, so I looked for bad (cold) solder joints on the backlight inverter board.

After a close inspection of the board, the bad solder joint was obvious. The bad solder joint on my board was on one of the coils – the bare pin on the coil was sticking through from the component side with very little solder on the pad on the circuit board. I resoldered it and that fixed the problem. There may be other cold solder joints at different locations on YOUR board. You just have to inspect each joint carefully.

This is a view of the monitor disassembled from the case:

Bezel Removed

This is the component side of the backlight inverter board:

Component Side

This is the solder side of the backlight inverter board with the bad joint circled:

Solder Side

Close-up of the backlight inverter board with the repaired cold solder joint circled. Inspect the board for cold solder joints – they will be fairly obvious. It’s possible that the cold solder joints on YOUR board are in different locations on the board from the one circled here: (Jan. 23, 2009: If the cold joints aren’t obvious, I recommend using a 10x magnifier, or just reheat the solder joints on the components that have white glue holding them to the circuit board, see fig. 2)

Close Up


369 Responses to “HP Pavilion f1703 Flat Panel Display Blackout Solution”

  1. Keiko Kaplan says:

    Mr. Wong,

    Eight years later, and your article is still useful. My F1703 was made in September 2003, and has been in semi-constant use ever since. A few days ago, the black screen issue began to occur. I almost gave up after learning that the recall ended in 2009, but decided to give your solution a try before junking the screen. The problem on mine turned out to be a very hard-to-miss cold solder on one of the toroids. I can’t thank you enough for your excellent article, as well as all the time and research you have spent for others on this issue.

  2. Duane Johnsen says:

    I found a F1703 cheap and bought it, they told me it was working. Guess I should have had them turn it on. Anyway, I found some bad solder joints and repaired them, but I am still having some problems with flickering, lines, faded, etc. I have one bad cap, C102, which I can replace as soon as the stores open tomorrow, but there is also one SM cap that is blown on the other side, C114. Any help on the value would be greatly appreciated.

  3. [...] cool. But this last solution too did not work, and I had to put the monitor aside. However today I found a good page with many suggestions to trouble shoot the blackout problems in this [...]

  4. Stan Zachary says:


    You are awesome. A few weeks ago I was given a HP F1703 monitor with the 5 second blackout problem. Followed your suggestion re resoldering the coils and, lo & behold, it now works. Bad solder joits appears to be a common problem with this monitor. Thanks very much for posting it.

  5. Pepijn de Witte says:

    Hey Leslie!

    I just discovered that the display in the F1703 is exactly the same as in a 1702 monitor. If you can find a black-out-defective F1703 and a punched 1702. you can swap out the displays and you got yourself a working 1702 with F1703-display in it.

  6. symo says:

    Thanks man. This has been pain in the #@$.
    Now a happy man.

  7. Mick says:

    Re Doris’s Post #360.

    This Monitor is another AOC product. The F1503 is 2002 vintage.

    R128 is a 2W 1 Ohm 5% resistor in the +9.2V 200mA supply. It’s located on the LCD Control board & is close to D184. 2002 vintage. It’s failed probably due to a due to a short. Check C160-163 and elsewhere for shorts.

  8. Joseph says:

    I have the f1703 and my power board is completly different what do i do

  9. Doris says:

    RE: HP f1503 lcd monitor

    Hi everyone,
    can someone help me identify a fried resistor on the board
    it is located at R128… many thanks in advance

  10. rafiq says:

    i have viwsonic monitor pls helpe me fault my monitor monitor on few minut after brightness show pls mail me.

  11. Todd says:

    stays on indefinitely and I am now using an original HP 12v supply.

    If I unplug it, it turns off immediately.

    I still believe I have a bridged track or component as 2 of the solder pads and tracks lifted when I was removing those inverter transistors. This perhaps why I have a current leak…

    May have to de-solder and try again…

  12. Todd, does it go off after a while or does it always on? What happens if you unplug it? Could it be some residual voltage because of your 18V power supply?

  13. Todd says:

    Well, I replaced the 4 Inverter Transistors today, and voila it works. However…

    …when I turn it off, the yellow light goes out, but the top right hand side of the screen stays lit?? I have looked at the board and cannot ‘see’ any bridged tracks…any suggestions?

  14. Todd says:

    I have been running this power supply on the f1503 now for about 2 years, I opened it up last week and had a look, nothing is showing signs of running too hot, but you are right it is probably a ticking bomb and will eventually fail.

    I have found another f1703 at my local auctioneer and hopefully will win that one for $10 Aussie – it powers on but no picture, sounds like the inverter board. Hopefully the joints on the toroid coils are dry or a few bad caps, nevertheless I now have 2 of these monitors to work on both for under AU $25…with parts and power supplies.

    Thanks for the help.

  15. Janv says:

    (continuing the story from post 344)
    The monitor has been functioning since May. Some weeks ago, the kids started to complain about having to use the on/off button repeatedly before the monitor would stay on, and finally it would not switch on any more. My wife has bought them a new one, but after some trial and error I seem to have the f1703 back to work again: by setting the brightness to its very minimum before I switch the monitor off.
    Looks like the monitor is reaching the end of its life, but I have spend so much time in trying to repair it, I’m not letting it go yet…

  16. Todd, I thought the output voltage of the AC supply was around 12V. Running it at ~18V-19V might work for a while (your “fair amount of tolerance for input voltage”), but you must see why things start to fry after a while.

  17. Todd says:

    thanks for the reply with regard to that resistor Leslie.

    I have another question.

    I also have a f1503, I am assuming they run the same inverter board.

    I inadvertently plugged the power adaptor from my N610C laptop (18v DC) the night the f1703 inverter board blew, this subsequently blew Q212 and Q211 I will replace these, will also replace Q210 & Q209 to be sure. R128 is fried and not showing any resistance, all fuses are ok?

    Looking at the f1503 I am using, the power adaptor is rated at 19v @ 3.16A DC. I know it is the wrong adaptor, however it works!!

    It would seem the f1503 board has a fair amount of tolerance for input voltage. Secondly, the f1703 only had 18v @ 3.61A, I recall it turned on and then a “That Smell” come from it (Inverter transistors).

    Would it be a fair call to say the f1703 had an underlying issue when I run the 18v into it.

    Any insight appreciated.

  18. Todd says:

    Hi – just wondering what the resistor at r128 is, looks like a 1 watt, but is is black (someone threw 18v at it)

    4 Trannys are also gone, they are on the way.

    Anything else to look out for?

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